Sapa

The four days that I spent here were fantastic. Catching the night train from Hanoi to La Cai was an interesting experience – I was in the hard sleeper section, with 6 to a cabin. I was on the top bunk, where I had about 2 feet of space between the mattress & ceiling. I was quite lucky, the Vietnamese people who I shared the cabin with wanted to turn the light off instantly and I got about 5 / 6 hours sleep. To be honest, I don’t feel I need to try a soft sleeper, let alone the exclusive luxury ones.

I was asked, in broken English, if I wanted to share a minibus to Sapa ( the train only goes up to Loa Cai ) and I agreed. It turned out the people I was sharing the minibus with were accountants, coming up to do a job in Sapa! The ride up was interesting – a, I got a glimpse of some spectacular scenery & b, I was surrounded by 4 Vietnamese being sick ( fortunately into bags & the windows were open … but then they chucked the full bags out of the window!). I was slightly bemused –  at the littering of a pristine sight and the road wasn’t that twisty, but then you could be puking up with fear over the driving: toot the horn, then over take on a sharp blind bend / nearly swiping a motor cycle or two… and repeat for an hour!

But we made it to Sapa, without incident, though the weather had totally changed. What had been heat and sunshine gave way to rain, cloud and a considerable drop in temperature!

I was a bit miffed – the drop in temperature was welcome & I had heard about arriving into Loa Cai with lovely weather, then 32km away in Sapa having a torrid time. I meandered around the town, with ‘North Face’ shops ten a penny. I booked my trek, resigned to the fact I was going to get very very very wet – the guy sharing my ‘dorm’ ( I had booked a 4 bed dorm, but it was just a twin room ) came back soaked & he had to bike down the mountain to get the train! – not my idea of fun.

So the morning of the trek arrived & it wasn’t raining, though it was overcast. I joined my group as they came down the hill, walking with us / trying to sell things were local tribes people ( all women ) in traditional dress that one in our group said reminded him of South America. I couldn’t afford a private trek with Sapa Sisters, so I was herded along with many others ( in separate groups, but following the same route )

The soil around Sapa is clay based, combined with the previous rain, the heavy footfall & water from the paddy fields, the path was incredibly muddy! Without asking some of the local women grabbed hands and helped you along – we later learnt / joked this was the contract that required you to do some ‘shopping’ with them!  The trekking was easy, as we descending into the valley, and it gave some lovely vistas:

The hills were very steep, and it was impressive to see the utilising of as much space as possible. However, this place can’t be that productive – they use water buffalo as tractors:

It was odd, we didn’t really see many men – either in the fields or in the villages – the women seemed to do all the work.

We passed a newly installed hydro electric power plant – it had only just connected the local population to electricity two months ago! We passed a pig about to be killed and we wondered how they preserved it, as they didn’t seem to salt their food & fridges were few and far between….  We passed more rice fields:

and had lunch by the side of the river. Here it was like a swam of wasps around a honey pot ( the tourists & our cash being the honey, the tribes people the wasps ) we and everybody else were pestered left right and centre to buy thier creations. School was out, so there were a lot of young kids too; shoving things in your face. Once you made eye contact, that was it, the women moved in. I don’t know why, but their sales patter started with: you shopping? you shopping with me? then a bracelet / woven thread / comb / something was shoved in front of you. This happened frequently -we only got respite when the eatery owner shooed them away. So they waited outside, ready for when we left.

Our trek including a brief visit to a house where demonstrations of local crafts – weaving / dying / etc occurred. We ended the day with a dip in the river:

Our night was spent at a homestay – think barn, with an upper floor equipped with a light, mosquito nets and mattresses; i.e. rustic! But this village wasn’t that authentic – it had a pub that had been awarded a TripAdvisor certificate & wifi! The  homestay owners gave us some potent home brewed alcohol, which the French lapped up. The Dutch couple, Aussies & I passed when it came around for the third round. Talking of the French, it was horrible how they lit up everywhere, even if we were eating.

The second day started with revelations of a sunburnt neck and copious amounts of sunshine:

Our guide, and other Vietnamese used an umbrella to avoid the sun – when asked what about suncream, he said it didn’t work…. He also said that he couldn’t swim, and would need to eat many dragon files to help him float…

But he was nice! We met some more Water Buffalo:

And arrived at the top of a waterfall, where lots of tribes people appeared:

Some were guides, but other were trying to hawk their wares.

After a dip in the river, and lunch, we were back in Sapa by 2. It wasn’t the most arduous trek I’ve ever done, but it was one of the most picturesque and the Dutch couple & young Australian couple were good company.

The French seem to have left a couple of good things in Sapa – fairly good bakeries & the ability to choose a good bottle of wine. I spent a couple of hours eating dried buffalo, lovely ( a bit of lime juice made it even better ), drinking Argentinian reds, eating dinner & failing to write this blog….

This morning I checked out, and wandered around Sapa, picking up a few bits and bobs for family at home and the epic amount of travelling I was about to do. In the early afternoon I wandered down to Ca Ca village, the closest ethnic village, where I was rewarded with lovely weather and beautiful views.

I took a Xem Om back up – exhilarating, enjoyable and a tiny bit reckless but I had a huge grin for the whole way & it certainly beat walking back up the hill! I’m very glad I went to Sapa. I could stare at the meandering mountains, rice fields & the rest forever.  

I’m now on the train to Dong Hoi, I arrive into Hanoi at 4am, then get the 6am train south and so should get to Dong Hoi around 4pm. Huge caves ( 32km long ) beckon. And the washing of my clothes – some things you can’t escape from…

W.

P.S.

The train back to Hanoi was less fun, partly my cabin was full of Chinese people, who crammed in another 3 people and started handing out cigarettes and lighting them – I was very forceful saying no smoking and pointing at the clear sign on the wall. Luckily they relented, but I got some stares. Some younger Chinese people popped by, and it was stare at the Westerner time, shouting ‘Foreigner’ ( yes, well aren’t you too?! ) and trying out their poor English. Also odd was the Chinese guy jokily trying to tuck me in. That wasn’t on.  

There was a constant squeek in the cabin & somebody on the top bunk could never get comfortable, fiddling with the aircon / light /bed endlessly. We arrived into Hanoi at 4.15, and I made it to the waiting room where I really was the only white person there. It was amazing how many times   taxi / Om Xe drivers and then the same ones 10min later  would come round and ask if I wanted a taxi…. I was in the departure lounge of the train station..!

The journey so far is OK. I’ve caught up on a little sleep and I’m 3 hours in. 6 hours 20 to go! Its going OK, 1 hour 30 to go, though they don’t seem to announce stations – I’m going on timings alone!

Arrived in Dong Hoi. hour late but hey. nice views from the 4th floor:

W

Hanoi – Photos

This gallery contains 12 photos.

This post relates to my post on Hanoi, but these photos didn’t upload… So read this for context  

Hanoi

So I’ve been in Vietnam for about 5 days now, and although it has been a bit wet at times, its been fun.

The first entertainment was getting to Hanoi – The hostel in Bangkok insisted that even at 4am, it would take 45min to get to the airport. It didn’t! it took 15 minutes… hey ho. Then while getting my visa in Hanoi I was surprised at how many people didn’t realise that although you pay a fee to get a visa on arrival, there is also a stamping fee of $45. And there are no cash machines pre-immigration. They were getting quite grumpy, as they had to wait around to be escorted to withdraw some cash, but I didn’t have too much sympathy.

Hanoi was crazy. The Old Quarter is very narrow and bustling with life. There are also numerous mopeds trying to take lives as there are no rules of the road. Just a lot of honking ( this was a shock, compared to the tranquility of Bangkok ) To cross a road, stick your hand out, and gingerly walk across, slowing down / speeding up as you weave through on coming traffic and they weave around you. Or honk very loudly. Also, pavements are not for walking on – oh no, they are for parking a bike or two and eating on…

I had some great street food in Hanoi – Pho Bo & other things. A broth with glass noodles, greens, herbs and meat. I ended up sitting next to an American couple on their honeymoon ( from Brooklyn ) who tipped the vendor…!!! Out and about you can also pick up a lovely steamed bread bun full of egg, mushroom and stuff. Very yummy. Left over from French rule is a fairly good baguette – it has been nice to eat eggs and bread for breakfast!

The hostel was good, but certainly attracting a particular crowd of people. I didn’t want to go on their castaway cruise due to alcohol centered fun and price, so I found a travel agency around the corner that quoted a good price for a night in Ha Long Bay. Which was impressive, even in the rather wet and miserable weather we have been having….

Click here for photos ( I don’t know why they didn’t upload initially )

The water was still warm. But it was interesting when we were near to the floating villages how much rubbish there was…. such a shame. I ate some great seafood – crab, clams, some untranslateable  fish – maybe related to Sea Bass, who knows and octopus salad ( a bit too rubbery tbh ). With our evening meal we had huge shrimps and some other bits and bobs. We tried Vietnamese wine. I think the French failed to impart enough information here ( slightly port like ). I met some interesting people, and we played Rummy / Irish snap to while away the evening – the drinks were very expensive – and were slowly going deaf from the singing.

Ha Long Bay probably would have been better in clearer weather, but I think over all it was a rather magical & awesome place. From up close and afar, they were magnificent.

Before I left Hanoi, I caught a Water Puppet show – Odd, but impressive. The water hides the arms controlling the puppets & the performers are behind a screen.

The trip up to SaPa was interesting. I was in a hard sleeper – it lived up to its name – and the train jolted frequently. On the minibus up, when the clouds broke, you could catch lovely views of the rice fields in the valleys below, in shades of green and brown. SaPa seems rather damp, but there is lots of cheap ‘North Face’ kit about. Am going on a trek tomorrow – I know I am going to get rather wet – and staying in a home stay with some minority Peoples, which should be good. Approx 10 km a day – so not too much!

On Friday I catch the sleeper back to Hanoi, getting in a 4am. Then I’m on the train to Dong Hoi ( 9hrs ! ) at 6.15am, where apparently they have a huge dry cave system near by and then after a day there to Hue, and hopefully far better weather!

W

Come fly with me…. again.

America was awesome. And yet, as I sat in work I began to think about going away again – could I go before I joined Deloitte? I did the sums and calculations & decided that I could and would go travelling again. – But where?

Well  folks, this Wednesday I’m flying off to South East Asia until the end of August (I’m back on the 24th)! Asia was my second choice, after America, and it is pretty cheap (vital for the Bevan budget) so it seemed like a great idea.

There isn’t so much of a plan this time, though there are some places I have to be at – like on the 23rd August be in Bangkok to catch the flight home – I ain’t constrained. Roughly ( take note Mum & Dad ! ), I’m flying into Bangkok, then up to Ayutthaya. From there I’m heading up to Chiang Mai for a week or so. Then back down towards Bangkok. I might pop to a National Park, but the real intention is to hop across into Cambodia to Siem Reap and visit the temples at Angkor Wat.

Buddhist monks in front of the reflection pool at Angkor Wat, Cambodia. View On Black (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

English: View of Angkor Wat temple in Siem Reap, Cambodia. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Then after this, I’ll fly up to Hanoi, pop up to Sapa

Sapa (Photo credit: flipnomad)

and around then back to Hanoi. Out to Halong Bay

English: Halong Bay, in Vietnam. Français : La Baie d’Ha-Long, au Viêt Nam. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

, then I’ll meander on down Vietnam, stopping off to get a suit made & visit some lovely beaches as well as remnants of the American war. I’ll end up in Saigon where I’ll hop over to Singapore for two days, then back to Bangkok & fly home.

I have guidebooks etc, but any suggestion of somewhere, something I should go and do would be gratefully received.

So once again, please do come with me. I’ll be aiming to update this blog every couple of days, though updating could become sporadic. We shall see! On the right hand side there is a box where you can sign up to get this blog delivered to your inbox the moment I publish – go on sign up! ( Update: it seems when I link to the post itself, the sidebar disappears. So to sign up please go to my homepage, here )

W.